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The Johnson Publishing Company and its flagship publication, EBONY magazine, helped bring high fashion the Black middle class in America for five decades. For 50 years, from 1958 until 2009, their annual fashion show, the Ebony Fashion Fair, traversed the country. The coast-to-coast event was a pageant of haute couture that created aspirations wherever it went. It was a rite of passage for Black women, who flocked to it. The show also raised $55 million for African-American charities that included the United Negro College Fund and sickle cell anemia research.

Over its history, the Ebony Fashion Fair changed the lives of those on both sides of the catwalk, and it changed America.

Creating a New Runway

Growing up in gritty Compton, Calif., Paula Bond used to wonder, ‘Can anything good ever come out of here?’ Well, she did. The daughter of a single mother, Bond was the first Black woman crowned Miss California International in 1979. EBONY magazine put her on its cover, and then in the Fashion Fair show. “Here I am on the runway, wearing these gowns that cost thousands and thousands of dollars, this little Black girl,” Bond says. “In my mind, the gowns that I wore on that runway cost more than a used car my mom was ever able to afford when we were growing up.”

Faye Moseley was a 6-foot track star from Jackson, Miss., and a 23-year-old single mom of a 4-year-old. She was in the Fashion Fair in 1983. She had the legs, and they loved her on the runway. “I tended to wear things that were see-through and that were short,” Moseley says. “You wore your most over-the-top fashion garment because you could, and then when the show started you were mesmerized. You never left your seat because you were afraid that you would miss a one-of-a-kind garment.”

From splashy big-city venues to high school gyms in tiny whistle-stops, the young models traveled by bus—with seats removed for their long legs—all over the country and throughout the Jim Crow South. In the early ’60s, the Fashion Fair was in Jackson, Miss. One season, a young woman from Vicksburg named Del (Neely) Handy was with them. “It almost felt like steam coming up from the pavement. You could just feel it,” Handy says. “Our name was on our bus at one time … Ebony Fashion Fair. And I remember them taking our name off the bus so as not to call attention.”

But they were making history. In 1961, the models were invited to the White House through connections to the show’s then-director, Freda DeKnight. Handy recalls that they unexpectedly met President John F. Kennedy. She remembers an elegant dinner in the White House with strawberry shortcake.

It was a little different from how the models would dine on the road; restaurants were off-limits. John H. Johnson, chairman of Johnson Publishing and EBONY’s publisher, knew the models were aspirational figures, and he wanted them seen that way. “Mr. Johnson had said that when we went down South, we could never go in the back door of the restaurant,” Handy says. Instead, the White bus driver would go get takeout. “So we ate on the bus. I would say … all the way down through the South and up maybe as far as St. Louis, we didn’t sit down to eat until we got to either Lincoln or Omaha, Nebraska,” she adds.

A High-Fashion Power Couple

Johnson and his wife, Eunice, were visionaries. They met and married in Chicago, where he worked in insurance and she earned a master’s degree in social work. By 1945, they’d also created EBONY, and later they created JET magazine. Eunice Johnson, who was from a socially prominent family in Selma, Alabama, loved fashion and style, and she used it for Black self-empowerment. “Her real driving force was education,” says Linda Johnson Rice, Johnson Publishing CEO and the daughter of John and Eunice. “She just wanted to prove there was nothing you couldn’t do; there was no barrier to Black beauty. She would put the brightest yellow [or] brightest orange on the most dark-skinned model she had.”

In his memoir, Succeeding Against the Odds, John H. Johnson writes that at first, Eunice Johnson had to “beg, persuade and threaten” European designers to sell high fashion to a Black woman. But attitudes changed quickly, Linda says. “She opened those doors herself. You had to explain to Dior, you had to explain to Valentino. It wasn’t as if they weren’t welcoming; they were unsure.”

Certainly by acquiring 8,000 ensembles, Eunice Johnson was a top American purchaser of couture. A photograph of her, probably taken in the 1980s, shows her in an embrace with iconic French designer Yves St. Laurent. But the financial outlay of the show was tremendous. Johnson Publishing announced in 2009 it would have to cancel the show’s fall season. A few months later, Eunice Johnson passed away at age 93.

Preserving a Racial Triumph

Last year, the Chicago History Museum went through racks and racks of Eunice Johnson’s clothes for a huge exhibit called “Inspiring Beauty: Fifty Years of Ebony Fashion Fair.” Curator Joy Bivens helped choose the outfits, day wear, evening wear and cocktail outfits. She grouped them by category: revealing, bold and sassy. “One of my favorite gowns in the whole show … I call it the “Rainbow Gown,'” Bivens says. “I’m not sure what Mr. B Michael would call it. It’s really unique.” The Rainbow Gown was created by New York designer B Michael.

Eunice Johnson promoted young Black designers such as Stephen Burrows, Patrick Kelly, Willi Smith, L’Amour and many more. B Michael was designing hats for the TV show Dynasty when Mrs. Johnson called, and it changed his life. She wanted to photograph one of his hats for EBONY. He still remembers the hat. “It was a white sisal, which is like a linen-texture straw hat,” he says. “And I think what she liked about it is that it really looked like a flying saucer. It was one of the things that I did, where I took the brim and reversed, the brim went up as opposed to down. I collared it with rhinestones and pearls; I remember it very well.”

Today his company, b michael America, is a national brand at Macy’s, and his couture has been seen on Cate Blanchett, Nancy Wilson and Beyoncé. For the Black middle class and the Black sororities and charities sponsoring the Fashion Fair, the pageant was the event of the year. In Washington, D.C., Tonya Talley-Smith and her mother and sister dressed to the nines and went every year, either to the Kennedy Center or a nearby country club, a tradition that began in 1968. “We’d grown to a place where we had not been before, and not only that but we were beginning to go into stores that we had not been in to,” Talley-Smith says. “And the style of the hair was beginning to change, even down to the color of your hosiery. Because back when I came along, to get a pair of hose to match your skin, we had to dye them.” They dyed them by dipping them in coffee, she says.

A History of Black Fashion on Display

The Johnsons may have been the first to bring haute couture to the Black middle class, but Maxine Craig, who teaches gender studies at the University of California, Davis, points out that the tradition of the Black beauty pageant dates back to at least the late 19th century. “Well, Ringwood’s Afro-American Journal of Fashion is one of the earliest Black women’s magazines, and we’re going back to 1890s here,” Craig says. She says EBONY and the Fashion Fair were all about racial aspirations. “So EBONY would say something like, ‘This season, we will need cashmere sweaters because they’re essential when you go on a cruise,'” she says. “Now, most of the readership, if they were in the South, couldn’t sit in the front of a bus, much less go on a cruise.”

At that time, Craig says, airlines refused to hire Black stewardesses, but EBONY was showing models carrying Pan Am flight bags. She says they were letting Black readers visualize where they will go. “High fashion may be distant, but style is accessible. And it’s your right to have it,” she says.

Fifty-three years ago, Look magazine published a Norman Rockwell painting of a small Black girl walking into a newly desegregated New Orleans school. The wall behind her is smeared with racial slurs and splattered tomatoes, and the U.S. deputy marshals protecting her have tense shoulders and clenched fists. But 6-year-old Ruby Bridges is calm and erect. “She never cried,” recalled one of the marshals, Charles Burkes. “She didn’t whimper. She just marched along like a little soldier, and we’re all very very proud of her.”

Children like Ruby were soldiers, facing angry mobs and even death threats during their daily trips to school. By 1963, when Martin Luther King shared his dream that “little Black boys and Black girls will be able to join hands with little White boys and White girls,” Ruby had spent more than two years in the trenches.

Child psychologist Robert Coles was with her for most of that time, and in the March 1963 Atlantic, he described how Ruby and her classmates were adapting to desegregation. Some children were fearful, and others were cruel. But before long, most seemed to forget their parents’ warnings and give in to their natural tendency to play.

As Coles wrote: One of the first children to return, a girl of six with blonde curls, approached Ruby, and, loyal to her mother’s words, she told Ruby that she was not supposed to play with her. A few minutes later their teacher watched them busily jumping rope together. … Living in an immediate world where what matters most to them is freedom of motion and the satisfactions of the moment, [children] end up singing and playing together with ease.

Prince is renowned for his god-like ability to shred on his (literally) signature axe, but the Purple Rain maestro revealed that he’ll be forgoing his guitar in favor of a more intimate piano for a just-announced, globe-spanning new tour. The Prince Spotlight: Piano & A Microphone Tour—which is rumored to make stops in a dozen countries in less than a month—will feature solo Prince performances where he only wields (you guessed it) a piano and a microphone.

“Why do this now? For several reasons. For starters it is a challenge,” he told Cultura, who broke the news. “I rarely get bad reviews because this is something that’s been perfected for over 30 years. You have to try new things. With the piano it is more naked, more pure. You can see exactly what you get.”

ATLANTA (AP) — A woman in charge of caring for Bobbi Kristina Brown at the hospice where she died was impersonating a nurse and faces charges, police said, the latest offshoot following the death of the only daughter of singers Bobby Brown and the late Whitney Houston.

The 22-year-old Brown died July 26, six months after she was found face-down and unresponsive in the bathtub of her townhome in January. In that span, police have investigated, lawyers have traded accusations about what caused her death and tabloids have covered every development.

There’s no indication in a police report obtained by The Associated Press on Tuesday that Brown’s care was affected by Taiwo Sobamowo, the nurse in charge of caring for the 22-year-old at Peachtree Christian Hospice in Duluth.

Police said Sobamowo, 32, was impersonating a licensed nurse with a similar name and faces charges that include identity fraud and nursing without a license.

Bad Brains guitarist Dr. Know, real name Gary Miller, is reportedly in the hospital and on life support, according to social media posts by the band, author Greg Tate and others.

While news of Miller’s hospitalization has been circulating since as early as Sunday night, Bad Brains posted on Facebook today: “The Bad Brains family ask that you please keep Gary (Dr. Know) Miller in your thoughts and prayers. The family respectfully ask that their privacy be honored during this time and very much appreciate all the great energy that is being sent their way.”

WASHINGTON (AP) — American University students are calling attention to racist comments they see on social media and demanding the administration do more to encourage sensitivity.

Students launched an online campaign called #TheRealAU. They're posting screenshots of slurs and even plastered them on the school's front gates, in hopes that shining a light on racist comments will make them tougher to ignore.

Students have formed a group called TheDarkeningAU to amplify their complaints. Daniel Marks, a senior from Atlanta who says racial tensions have grown in recent years, says they want a mandatory education program to help white and privileged students understand issues that affect people of color.

Assistant Vice President of Campus Life Fanta Aw says the university takes race relations seriously and works with incoming students and faculty.

It's just after noon when Sybrina Fulton dials into the conference line for our interview, and it's quite obvious that she's a very busy woman.

"I have a million things to do," she says almost apologetically. "You know how it is."

The world knows Sybrina via tragedy. Her son Trayvon Martin's Feb. 2012 death sparked worldwide protests and national outcry about the unfair practices executed by the American justice system, one that seems to lend itself to the execution and incarceration of Black and Brown bodies more than justice.

What's worse? The fact that her son's killer remains free.

"That is the most outrageous part of it," said Fulton. "Not only do you lose your loved one, but the person who shot and killed them does not have to justify themselves for what they've done, because we have laws that say you can shoot somebody and get away with it."

Fulton"s life forever changed on that fateful winter evening. Her quest for justice earned her recognition from Cafe Mocha's Salute Her Tour this year, one that honors women who are making positive changes in their communities. "A lot of times, people think that what we need to do is change the laws and have stricter laws" said Fulton.

"I'm for change and I think that we need change, but not only do we need to see change in law, but in mindsets. When somebody can look at you and judge you by the color of your skin, it';s not something wrong with the person that you're looking at, it's something wrong with the person judging you. So we gotta get that into people's heads and mindsets."

Through the Trayvon Martin Foundation, Fulton works tirelessly to ease not just her pain, but the pain of those who have lost loved ones far too soon.

Black Lives Matter activist Deray McKesson posted a Twitter message saying he and other activists are slated to meet with Hillary Clinton Friday morning.

The meeting was confirmed by a Clinton campaign aide and will take place in DC. Clinton isn't the first legislator who has met with members of the movement. McKesson and other activists have met with Elizabeth Warren and Bernie Sanders over the last few weeks.

McKesson requested a meeting with the 2016 presidential hopeful via Twitter on Sept. 21.